Has the beast finally been tamed? The nose was very docile and subdued, with aromas of cut grass, limoncello, powder puff makeup and vetiver essential oils; descriptors not usually associated with this make. And neither were the flavours – a vegetable tagine with butter bulgur wheat was accompanied by a glass of chilled chablis, with those typical notes of cherry blossom and the zest of citrus fruits. We were almost too scared to dilute but after a drop of water the scents of chamomile tea, rapeseed blossom, marmalade and beeswax candles came to the fore. On the palate we were reminded of two fizzy drinks: a peach bellini and a crémant de loire.