Fourteen years in an ex-bourbon barrel preceded further time in this first fill Australian tawny cask; the colour is crazy. On the nose we got jam, stewed apple and glacé cherries, some fruity shiraz – then hints of tobacco, leather and desiccated coconut in the background. The palate mingled sticky jam sponge with lightly spiced red wine and a teasing finish of chewy oak and rosemary sprigs. The reduced nose had honey and butterscotch sweetness, kumquat and star fruit, with wisps of honeysuckle and hazelnut. On the palate, behind the dominant sangria flavours, we discovered orange and marzipan, then slight tobacco and nutmeg to finish.