On the nose, a flurry of fruits (peach, pear, blackcurrant, gooseberry, damson) is followed by Battenberg cake and hints of liquorice and oak. The palate is an enigma of sweetness and wood – vanilla custard meets dark chocolate, orange oil, crystallised ginger, cinnamon and chewed pencils. The reduced nose gets more stone fruits, cherry yoghurt and a teasing mixture of meadow flowers, pollen dust, nettles, rosemary and a heathery hillside. The palate remains bold and vigorous – butterscotch, toffee, Iced Gems and honey on freshly baked crusty bread, some floral notes and a tingling finish of ginger, pine wood and Extra Strong mints.