"Now we are talking!" someone said – as our noses led us along the shore, past lobster pots and tarry ropes, following the irresistible scent of fragrant smoke from a whisky barrel, in which salmon was hot-smoking. The taste was a celebration of smoky piña coladas and charred pineapple chunks – we were so full of joyous expletives we had to wash our mouths out with carbolic soap. Water brought to the nose nasturtiums by the seashore, peanut skins and foamy shrimp sweets. A fantastically complex palate of orange oil, violets and thyme, chalky refresher sweets and sherbet dib-dabs, with subtle peppermint to finish.