A big and expressive nose that brimmed with grubby coal smoke, herbal bitters and savoury smoked fish. Also herby pork sausages, charred bacon and burnt heather with hints of antiseptic cream and carbolic soap. The waft of a freshly creosoted fence. With water we noted gooseberries, elderflower, burning gorse and various varieties of smoked fish and rollmop herring. The neat palate showed a big initial slick of extra virgin olive oil, smoked almonds, campfire on a beach and seawater. Reduction brought out savoury hickory smoke, charcuterie, a waxy mouthfeel and punchy medicinal tones.