An enigma teasingly wrapped in smoke; the nose offered roasted parsnips and smoked venison, smoky blue cheese and pears poached in that ‘love it or hate it’ Islay distillate served on porridge. The sweeter than expected palate gave us heather honey and orange travel sweets, smoke in spades and a kick of heat, partially soothed by glacier mints. The reduced nose suggested compost in the potting shed, dried heather and lavender, sweet potato pie with beef gravy, lemon juice, ash and smoke. The palate became softer and more lightly smoked – honey-glazed ham, lime mayo, white grapes and plum skins all appeared.