After ten years in ex-bourbon wood, we moved this into a first-fill Spanish oak Oloroso hogshead. The nose had curious intimations of cloudy cider, juniper and polished shoes, plus more familiar aromas of treacle, toasted oak and chocolate-coated raisins. The big robust palate had black cherries, sugared almonds and nutty Oloroso-soaked oak, all bathed in a multitudinous mix of spices. The reduced nose found crème brulée, jam bubbling in a copper pan and seared steak flamed in Armagnac. The reduced palate was even nuttier (macadamias, walnuts, Brazils) with malt loaf, caramel and vanilla – then white pepper, nutmeg and charred oak to finish.